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My Super Nova
THE LATER YEARS
Time Warp 
I've had the boat a number of years and I guess this it's log book.
Up's, downs, screw ups, it all happens here in print and pictures.
Over time what started out as a small, single page blog has turned into something that's to big to fit on any one page.
- ALLEY 201 -
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
- THE NEW SHANTY TOWN -
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
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Original builds of what makes it go
SEE ALL THE FUN OF MAKING THEM GO.
JUST CLICK THE LINKS.
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Lists
February 2008
February is here and it’s only a few days from the Daytona 500. That to me means it’s time to get starter for the upcoming spring.
In the past I would have been preparing all winter but the boat has been on the back burner over this winter. That time went to the Nova’s and my new home. We moved here in a big part because the boat ramp just down the street (for the Nova). Now there is due’s to pay. The house is only 8 years old but nothing was ever taken care of so there is a list of things to do a mile long to it. I’m way ahead of schedule on the list and soon it will be a time to put that list away for a while and start a new, more fun list to be worked on along with some outside project on the house that have to happen in the warm months. Like hopefully a parking pad/future garage floor concrete pour, for the boat of course.
Time Warp will also be seeing some changes.
Some on the new list for it are done and some are in the works and nothing is definite as of yet but where there is a will there is a way. Let’s just see if I and the budget can hold up.
One thing like cleaning out the boat happened when I winterized last fall. It was amazing what had been squirreled away over the last 7 years. Now that we live just a short walk to the water and ramp there is no reason to have a lot of this stuff just riding around. Also having a garage we finally have the storage space for it so again out it goes to stay. Now I know a few things have to go back like the batteries and safety stuff but after the boat was emptied it actually changed the balance on the trailer. If I was to tow it now it would be all over the road. So that got me thinking. Just emptying it made that much of a change it was time to make some wholesale changes.
First, both batteries are moving to the back. Just in front of the motor. I know Brownie's intentions were to have the battery (yes, just one back then) as far forward as possible so if the boat sank they would stay dry the longest and the C B radio would still work but today I think I would have a better chance reaching the USCG with my cell phone in the Bay. They will now be side by side and the cables can be a lot shorter. This kind of had to happen anyway. The 454 is longer in the nose (pulleys) then the Chrysler 360 and the one battery that sits in front of the motor now has about a ½ inch from rubbing. If the tie down loosens even a tiny bit the crank pulley starts cutting into the box. Not good and it’s as far forward as it can go without moving the gas tank. Since I have to move it I might as well move it enough to get them both back there. Doing this will give the boat more bow rise as the gas tank empties. I have to move it forward about five inches. When it comes to my tank that means about a little over a gallon’s weight or about 6lbs of fuel with a full tank. The battery weighs a lot more then that and the weight never changes.
Then there is the multi electrical issues. One is the starter. Picked up a new mini (gear reduction and fully marine) starter. Makes it a lot easier on the batteries running one of these. My old starter would get real hot. Like to hot for how much it was used but when you pay 30 bucks for something you get what you pay for. It will also give me a chance to look over all the wiring on the motor to make sure there is not a short or something. Something was killing the batteries after leaving it sit for a day or so last fall so I’m going to chase everything to eliminate it all one by one.
I also started building more of a Mercruiser cooling system for a couple reasons. To start I want the parts back to the 360ci I still have sitting on a stand. One day it will go back together. It has to. You don’t let motors like that die. Then there is a steam issue it had with the 454 last year. When it started it was early in the season so I figured it was just cold water but as the summer went on it never went away. Water is not getting inside the manifolds so it has to be the way it is circulating and “hot spots” scare me. Also aluminum, cast iron, steel all expand at different rates. I think I can more stabilize the temperature in the whole motor, even the exhaust manifolds with the Merc system. Still have a couple small thing to work out but it will happen.
Stuff is starting to pile up.
My heads should be in this week. Found some 2.19/1.88 sets locally on the Donzi board from a guy that owns a marine performance shop. From what I gathered the two sets were on his boat when he bought it and were not good enough for his twin 650hp monsters that he built for it. I on the other hand I will never see those kind of numbers and for that matter I wouldn’t do that to the Nova. You can only push so hard on anything before it breaks. Even a Nova. So I am looking at the sets at his shop and pretty much lost on what to do as he shoots off numbers left and right about this set and that set when he gets to his personal head sets. He says, “that’s what you need but they need to be rebuilt.” I then say, again lost, “do you know anyone you trust, what about intake and cam, what should I used, what’s the better set of the two?” Up until that point he sounded like he knew what he was talking about. Around people like that I just tend to listen and see where they go. Unless you are on the same exact page as them in knowledge and think the same way as they do you always end up in a pissing match of what works and what doesn’t. Also most of these performance guys will keep the best stuff to themselves just to have something up on the other guy. Again it’s better just to listen and they will tell you everything. Your no threat. So he then says, “let me make a phone call.” He calls a couple people and gets who he wants to talk to and asks how much to do a set? The guy on the phone says $300, $400 if they are real bad. The owner then says he will be dropping off all 4 heads, pick the best set and best parts, test them all and rebuild a set and then hangs up. He then says $200 for the heads and he will throw in Offenhauser Intake with them. I was like, “Hell Ya!” I should be out the door with rebuilt heads from 5 to $600 when a single bare casting goes for $800 plus.
He also had a few other ideas after seeing the build list (he was not fond of) that I did last fall. So after everything I got from him and all the research I have done since the first build it looks like I will be going back to a duel plane cam. I found them way back when I was building the 360ci for the second of many times. Really like the way they preformed but was not sure if they would work in a Big Block Chevy. Apparently they are the cam of choice. Something around a 278/290. Little more lift and around 114 lobe separation so that pesky water reversion thing doesn’t happen. Also just picked up a new Edelbrock (name brand this time), Air Gap intake last night. Had to buy a new one anyway because the heads are rectangular ports and not ovals like the heads that are on it now. So why not? I am only doing this one more time.
There is a few more things to buy but I will soon be ready to get something done.
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April 23rd 2008
Things are coming together slowly to say the least. It’s given me a chance to get ahead on some of the house projects that were planned for later this summer but during this time the boat has sat.
I figure this weekend I'll have to go uncover it. There is a few things I can do without the missing parts for the motor.
The motor hold up is because there seems to be a shortage of cam billets (the shafts they make them out of). I have had a cam on back order for 3+ months with no production date in sight. In a desperate search I found a guy on OSO that had a “set” for sale. What’s a “set”? A lot of money. I didn’t get any deal on it but it's all new and it came with matching components. Like Crane #132561 hydraulic cam, #99277 lifters, Comp Cams High-Tech pushrods #7954, dual springs #924, USED Norris SS roller rockers for $500.00 bucks.
I wasn’t ready to buy everything at once and I did save a few bucks on a great set up of top end parts but I also may not have not paid that much for what I would have bought. That’s probably a good thing that I had to buy the set. After the sting of the money is gone and I'm installing them I‘ll be happy. I also have the same rockers he is sending me so they can be sold off for a few bucks.
The cam is a little hotter then what I was told to use at the start. After a lot of research while I waited for the last cam that never showed up I came across what most think as the holy grail of cams for the Gen IV 454. It’s what they call a “420 cam“ and after what I have read it should be a good one.
Duration Advertised: 298° Intake / 306° Exhaust Duration @ .050'' Lift: 228° Intake / 236° Exhaust Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .530'' Intake / .551'' Exhaust Lobe Separation Angle: 114°
It’s a MerCruiser cam for sure with those numbers. At the same time it’s no ordinary MerCruiser cam by a long shot.
Now with having the cam, lifters, matching springs, push rods, roller rockers, rebuilt rectangle port heads and Edelbrock air gap intake there isn’t much left for the top of the motor.
Most say it should be around the 420hp mark. Hence the name “420cam”. We'll see. If so that should be about all I would want to do.
I mean I like to go fast but 420hp in a 35+ year old boat is enough.
The "money shot" or another pile.
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Spring 08'
It was like a switch was flipped and it was time to get started.
Things are still progressing slowly on the motor front. I have most everything but the head gaskets, timing chain and valve springs. The first two were from me just not getting around to buying them. The last one. It's kind of a easy and safe way out of a issue. The springs that came with the "kit" were "double springs" and my newly rebuilt heads use umbrella valve seals. The smaller of the two "double springs" will not fit over the seals. I would have to cut the heads and install Teflon seals to make them work. So I went to Crane's website and looked up the cam and found their recommended "single spring" set. For $67.00 bucks. I'll let the UPS guy fix it this time and leave the heads alone.
I moved the both batteries to the back and moved the gas tank forward to try to change some weight around. The batteries are heavy and for the space I had to move the gas tank forward to make them fit in the back, even with it full tank the batteries weighed more. Not much more but how often am I going to have a full tank as high as gas prices are? Add in all the stuff I dumped out of the boat last fall cleaning it out it all adds up and every little bit helps.
Even with both in the back there is more room in front of the motor.
I also started the chine repair for the second time.
The first thing I did was fill the hollow chine with this two part epoxy foam I got from http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
The 16lb stuff. It's like the hardest they make. After I figured out how to get the stuff inside the chine with my little home made injector and some drilled holes it was all down hill from there.
It's like fix-a-flat for boat chines.
Just to see if the epoxy was any good I put some of the foam in a Dixie cup and let it expand and set. I then threw it on a concrete floor, hit it with a hammer and dug at it with a screwdriver. It's all they say it is. Just the slightest dents so it should work fine inside the chine. It's also as light as a feather. I figure if I did the whole chine it may add 3-4lbs to the boat.
Now it's back to fiberglassing.
This time I am over doing it big time. The transom will rip off before this patch will break loose. I first ground out all the area around the fix. I then routed out the crack it's self. After that I used a very expensive epoxy gel to seal the crack. I think the foam and the epoxy would have held by them selves but that was just the beginning. I so far have 9 layers of fiberglass over it all and probably will put another 3 to 5 layers on before it's all done. That and a couple other things I have yet to do will give me some time to get the parts in I need and when done I should be able to move right in to the motor work seamlessly.
I would much rather be in it then underneath.
May 12th
Another weekend goes by and more is done.
The motor parts are in. Or at least everything I have to order. I'm sure something will come up but at the moment I can cruise eBay and find nothing I could buy. Well maybe one or two things but it would just be "bling" and no more go then it is now. So I'm set.
I did get the springs installed in the heads and did a little detail work on the oil drains and casting's. I ended up using Comp's 911-16 springs. They are about as close as it gets to the Crane's I was going to get but they were unavailable like everything else from Crane. But besides that I haven't so much as opened the motor cover.
I pretty much spent the week still working on the chine. It's now fixed. Filled solid with 16lb epoxy foam, ground out and gel epoxy'ed the crack together,16 coats of glass and mat and a little fiberglass filler to smooth it all out. After all this, if it's not fixed I'll have to take it to someone.
Let's try this again one last time.
May 18th
A good way to spend a day or two or three or four……..
The last few days I have been trying things and moving things around before I start taking the motor apart.
This spring I’m making the raw water pump and the alternator like the Chrysler 360’s was. The boat is set up that way and it seems like the simplest way of doing things. But that means swapping the alternator and raw water pump from side to side. Also the alternator couldn’t be mounted as low on the motor on the other side.
So I restored the raw water system like it should be and got the water pump to the right side and all the plumbing done. The water pump was easy enough. It belonged on that side so it was as easy as flipping the bracket over. The plumbing and pick up to the pump all had to replaced due to the original being cannibalized to make it work with the 454 but all I had to do was put it together. Also the new and proper thermostat housing I bought for this years motor and plan on using has to have the raw water come in from this side. So by doing this I will be killing two birds with one stone.
Not hitting the oil pan any more.
As for the alternator? The first thing I had to do was come up with is a plan. I spent a couple days on it and looked at a lot of pictures of motors to see how it was done and couldn’t find one that looked like I wanted it to.
So to figure it out I got these two old brackets and started laying things out because I knew I couldn’t buy one off the shelf. I’ve tried and have a box full of different ones that were for a 454 and other motors that don’t even come close to working. After some cutting, a bolt or two and a little time I came up with a idea for a bottom bracket.
After a some more cutting and grinding on chunk of steel plate I had two stronger and solid copies of the original. With a couple chunks of pipe and a couple of bolts (I never have the right damn size even with a box full of them) I think I had something that was pretty solid and should work.
It's ugly but right.
It does feel like I'm reinventing the wheel though. There should be some sort of bracket you could buy so you can change sides but all the brackets are set up for car motors and their alternators cases are smaller and/or the water pumps or the pulley’s are longer. Something, but the bottom line is they mount to high on the motor. Where marine alternators wont fit because of their size.
Maybe I should patent this and sell them on the web? I'm sure others have wanted to do this. If so shoot me a email and I will tell all the details.
Paint makes everything look better.
On another front things are not going as smooth as planned (do they ever?). Took the boat down to the ramp to get it off the trailer and replace the trailer rollers. Put them on with all new hardware and reloaded the boat. Half of them ended up flatting out and two came right off their cores. 
A little to heavy for these 16 rollers.
Never thought they would flatten out like they did. Glad I got them off eBay on the cheap. There's nothing wrong with them. Just a little to "light weight" for the Nova / tank. So that's a $90 lesson and the new ones will be going on soon.
These are made a little better then the first.
May 31st
A three day weekend just past and it was time to suck it up and get some work done.
The bottom was done except for a couple minor scratches that can wait for later. I still have the new CD player (the first buy last winter) and new hatch cover to install. But with the stretch of time I had over the weekend I put it to much better use.
On Friday after work I was looking over the motor (last year’s version) to see how the rest of the changes I planned on making were going to affect the final out come and started making plans. But then I needed to remove one thing to see something and two hours later I had about all the top end taken apart.
I also needed to cannibalize the motor once again a few things so I could finish up some stuff. My bill was adding up fast and there was no reason to leave parts with 30 hours of use sit on a shelf just to buy new. The heads from the motor that was in the boat had the longer rocker studs that I needed for the new heads. Also there was the Norris roller rockers. A bunch of plugs for the intake. The intake I bought didn't come with any and they are insane to find in brass for some reason. Along with some other miscellaneous stuff that was needed.
Even though I am using new heads, springs, push rods and cam I still kept all the same rockers on the same studs in the same order on each head that was going back on the same side. In other words if the rocker and stud were cylinder #7, intake rocker and stud, it is now. The guides that came with the new heads were the right size (they are bigger then the oval port heads) so now they are pretty much ready to bolt on.
I did have a issue with the valve covers fitting over the rockers even though they were supposed to. A little work with a cutting wheel on the baffles fixed that up.
Ready to go.
As the weekend progressed things got done at super speed and also at a snail’s pace. Getting all the pulleys lined up and not rubbing anything took a couple trips to the store for the right parts as did the cooling system. Except for me being as nervous as I have been in a long time the rest of the motor fit together like it should. I’m not sure what I was expecting. I mean there were parts off of 3+ motors going into one. So whenever something didn’t fit right at first I immediately went into panic mode. It all worked out though.
By Monday night I had all the grunt work done and there was just a couple things to finish up. It was a holiday weekend and I had to call it quits around 7pm before I fell over anyway. I also had everything worked out but needed a new fan belt to replace the old one that I used to mach up everything, a couple hose clamps and such to make it right before starting it. There was no reason to do all this work just to use striped out hose clamps. That and I was in no hurry.
Tuesday came and I got some little things done and then it was time.
I hook up the water and turn the batteries on.
I hit the key and with one timing adjustment it started. Spun it right up to two grand and did the cam break in as it was getting dark. A couple checks and quick timing and oil it was time to call it a night and I’m sure the neighbors appreciated it.
Thursday showed up and after changing two hoses that I had been meaning to do since I built the motor last year I hit the key again. Starts right up. So all’s good right now. We'll see when I get a chance to take it to the ramp.
I also had time to chase that electrical issue I’ve had going on. I replaced the volts gauge with another one again. Checked all the wiring to and from it and anything else I could come up with. After replacing one of the batteries that was bad, new cables and terminals, new starter, moving and rewiring the ALT I have fingers crossed. It was all I could come up with. I even unplugged the radio (with it’s always hot memory wire) just in case.
I left one of the two batteries that’s in the boat on since yesterday. It’s not dead. For that matter it’s perfect and ready for business. It must have had been something along my path of destruction. I going to leave it on for another day and then switch over to the other one and try it for two days. Last I will leave them both on and if that all passes. Only then I will check it off my list. It's not like I leave them on all the time anyway. If the boat is out of the water they are off.
Second Edition 
It all fits together real good and should be the final version.
June 14th
All seems well for the time I have used it so far. Gas prices are killer at 4+ bucks a gallon and have really put a damper on things. It’s gotten to the point that I would rather buy boats parts then gas. At least I will have the part at the end of the weekend.
I’m still tweaking here and there when I can .
I did install all new fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor eliminating everything in the fuel’s path. I started with 7/16th line from the tank (straight run) to the fuel pump, all new fittings to and from the new Jeg’s fuel pump, to new 3/8th fuel line to the quickly rebuilt carburetor with a new in-line fuel filter in between. I say “quickly rebuild” because I just took it apart and cleaned and blew it out real good.
I also added a new Super Stock coil just because it was easy.
Between the two I picked up another 100rpm’s.
The carburetor is next. New jets or something for it. But once again I will have to do some research on the subject before I start.
I know what you are thinking, this will never end. To that I have to say, “it’s over.” Not that I wont try to get the most out of what I have but at the same time no more big motor projects. This boat will never be a 80mph racer and I know that. But at the same time the prop can be reworked and stuff like the carburetor can be tweaked and getting everything in order is a must. Hell, I haven’t got everything broken in yet. Also even though I have a good exhaust now with the GLM’s and Mercuriser 502ci, SS 4” risers, a good set of header exhaust would be a plus. Not that I would break the bank for them but if the right deal comes along.
For now though I just need to use it as much as I can afford. I have less then 3 hours on the whole set up and less then a half hour on what I did this past weekend. The 4th of July is coming up in a couple weeks along with a couple concerts at the Inner Harbor that just cant be missed. Add in I haven’t been out past dark this year and my ramp is still kind of new to me I have some time to make up.
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Fall 08'
The end of the season is near. Maybe there’s one more ride left but I'm not counting on it.
As for my favorite season of the year with the boat, it turned out to be a bust this year. Like a friend on C/W says, "It's the year of the anchor."
In August I unexpectedly lost my job. Unemployment helped out but didn't pay for gas at 4+ bucks a gallon. I figure I am getting about a mile and a half a gallon in the boat at speed. The closest river is 4 miles away. Just going up and back was $20+ or you could think of it as, it cost about $1.77 for every minute the boat was running. So it sat most of Aug, Sept and October.
I got back to work at the end of September and as gas prices was coming down and money was coming in I could have got back going but there was another hold up.
The 454 was having an issue and I thought it may be related to the Thunderbolt IV box.
Some times for no reason the motor will step up the idle 400rpm’s. Take it for a ride, run it out a little, cruise for a while, come to a stop and it will idle like the choke is on or something. I had checked the motor over when it did it and the choke's not on at all, the carb step up’s were fine and the carb linkage was where it should be. And then just like that it will drop off and the idle is normal again with no changes made. I was at a loss why it did this but it was manageable.
Even though it had been acting weird since I installed the motor in the boat every now and then, on the last of the few rides I took this fall it was all kinds of screwed up. It wouldn't hold a decent idle at all and even started to miss in the upper power bans.
So with the typical response I have come a custom to with these things I used a sledgehammer to kill a fly. I did away with the whole MerCruiser ignition system. I had to. Most of it was 20+ years old. Sat outside in a junkyard for long enough until the ends of the exhaust rotted off. Had a another motor dropped on it. Who knows what could have happened to the box and distributor before I got it. So I went on the hunt and found a Pro Comp distributor and control box. I really wanted MSD but again the money was a little tight. I buy the thing and for some reason it takes weeks for it to show up. Nothing I could do about it now that they had the little bit of money I had for these things so I had to wait for it.
I like the red box and distributor.
When I did get to install it I was kicking myself for not doing it a lot sooner.
Right out of the box with the timing set to factory specs (factory specs are a just a starting point with this motor) I got the best speed ever out of the boat. It's only by a tenth but the boat was also rigged out for summer use and when I set the "fastest speed" before there was nothing but me and a quarter tank of gas in it. I'm thinking it was about the same temp out both times so it had to be the motor. I have been noticing a little bit of top end speed dropping off over the summer but thought it was just added weight and heavier summer air. I picked up 2mph over the last time I was out with no changes except for the ignition. Every time I think about it I get a smile on my face over it.
It also seems like I'm getting better gas mileage. I've only taken two short trips but I still have gas left over (something new for me). Now it could be that I'm getting more gas for the buck with the wild swings with prices. I not ruling anything out but it seems better milage.
11/24/2008
It may say fall on the calendar but it been like winter here for weeks. Lucky enough I winterized the boat a couple weeks ago and then covered it up last weekend. This is the first time in many years it snowed before Thanksgiving in these parts. This year it snowed four times. I knew it was coming. All the leaves fell off the trees real early this year. Mother nature doesn’t lie.
To be honest I'm kind of happy it’s here. This year was so screwed up with gas prices out of this world, my unexpected vacation, waiting on parts that I shouldn’t have been and that’s just with the boat. I need to regroup and start over again.
As usual it was a lot of fun the times I did get out but the boat is about at it’s last season before I’m ready to rip it all apart and do it over again. A few things are almost a decade old and are starting to show their age. For the most part everything was done O.K. the first time I did them but I have gained a lot of experience since then. Have you ever done something and then thought after you were done and it turned out “good enough” that if you just would have done it a little different? Well that’s where I’m at but to do the things I want is going to take a lot of time for the most part. I want to strip the boat down to it’s hull (I mean everything), bead blast the whole thing, change the seats, maybe build a sundeck over the motor, rear bench seat….. Just everything.
Now this may sound like a pipe dream but the possibility’s of this happening are coming to be. The house will be done this winter. We may not have a garage big enough yet but due to a project I picked up when I was unemployed I may have a whole summer to do it and that’s almost as good as a garage.
That project? About mid September I picked up a 19’ 1973 Monza. It needs a motor and a lot of work but lucky enough work for me is free and I already have the parts. It’s getting everything left over from the Nova. It has a Volvo 280 drive so the Mopar 360ci left over from the Nova is going in it. It spun a couple bearings the last time out in the Nova but it’s been totally rebuilt and is waiting to be installed. For that matter all kinds of stuff will be. If I don’t have it I’m selling off stuff from the garage to buy it. Just more left over parts from projects gone by. That’s what the garage sale link for is over there <<<<. I could also use the room. Who needs four intakes for the same motor anyway? So far honestly I’m in the red for about $500.00 for the whole deal. I even bought the boat with the money I got from the trim tabs from the Nova. I need a trim shield for a Volvo and exhaust for a Chrysler and I’m done. After this spring I will have a back up boat and will be a lot more willing to take the Nova off-line for a year.

Off-line for at least the next couple months no matter what.
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-Back In Control-
It’s February 15, 2009 and I have reassumed control of SuperNova19.com!
Lost it there for a little while. It was up on the web but I couldn’t do any updates or changes with the way things were. Also with Shanty Town (the home of SN19.com) torn apart for a remodel it took a good six weeks to get things back in order. But they are now.
First on a overall site thing. During the time off line due to a friend of SuperNova19.com’s I’ve been giving some information that will bring major updates to the Allmand page and a clue or two how the 19 ended up with Allmand and couple other surprises.
Now on to Time Warp as it sits snuggled under it tarp with it‘s little air dryer running away.
It seems like all I’ve been doing is Monza, Monza, Monza when not swinging a hammer but the Monza is truly becoming the “hand me down boat.” I guess old habits die hard.
It’s only been a matter of months ago that I was piling up parts for the 454 for this past spring just like every other winter for the last 8 years. This time as I do buy parts for the Monza I always have in the back of my mind that this is a project and not a member of the family like the Nova is. So I’m not always looking for the best of the best. More like what will be safe and functional. Being that almost everything that’s going in the Monza one way or another came from the left over’s from the Nova when I got the chance to get something with the Nova in mind and then use what I took off for something I needed for the Monza I jumped at it.
Here comes the great carburetor debate.
So I got this for the Nova on eBay for about ½ price the other night.
A couple small mod's and a K&N filter to make it legal.
Yes it’s a Edelbrock 800cfm carburetor. I’m sure the most of you all are going to say that I’m out of my mind. And for the most part I would say you’re right except when it comes to this.
First, I like Edelbrock carburetors. IMHO they are the best out there for boats. Easy to maintain, solid fuel bowls (no leaks), etc, etc. They cant flood over and they take a beating and keep on ticking perfectly.
I like them to be “BIG” is for many reasons. It really comes down to testing, testing, testing. I’ve gone out on a ride with three of them at a time before. Take a ride, switch it out, take another ride, switch it out….. GPS, tach and taking notes all the way. The EDL750 worked best on the Mopar 360ci and just had to be used at the time when the 454 was built. With everything I think know about these carburetors the 800 will be perfect on the big block. Only a matter of weeks and we will find out. If it don’t work (for you Nascar fans) I’ll stick a restrictor plate under it.
Oh and look at that air cleaner. I kept looking for a cheep one for the Monza and ended up buying this one for a little more. You guess it. It’s for the Nova. It matches the valve covers and again I can use the one from the Nova on the Monza. It’s a win, win scenario.
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Spring Is Here.
It says its April 29th on the calendar but you couldn't tell it by going outside.
A couple weekends ago I did take a quick ride. As simple as it's getting to de-winterize this thing on a day I knew the solid freezes were over I pulled the tarp just in case a good day would come up. Took about an hour and a half after work a few days later to get it up and running and that was with the new carburetor to install. Half old gas and half new and it ran like a top the first chance I got to go for a test drive. Since then it's just been to nasty out or the tide has been wicked low at the wrong times. Then there is the Monza. With all the bad weather it's been held up so I did give up the one and only good weekend for boat riding to paint it. It did catch me up a bit on the project. The next good day will not pass with out burning some gas.
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That's A Wrap
10/24/2009
Boy this season just buzzed right by. I cant believe I have waited this long for an up date. But again I can.
This has not been the best year for boating. The spring started with 37 out of 42 days of rain. Pressure treated posts in the yard got mold on them it was so wet. And then there was the projects. The endless projects.
The Monza project went like clock work to the point of things were going to good. The whole thing was wrapped up in the early spring despite the rain. The only thing was missing was the exhaust. I had it found and bought but the seller was a maroon and took forever to get it to my house. As normal I counted my chickens before they hatched and moved on before I should have. Thinking that all was left was bolting on the exhaust and taking it for a ride I got this idea. It was so early in the season I though, lets get this crazy out idea of the way if it‘s going to happen.
The original plan was finish the Monza and use it while I re-did the Nova19. The 19 has everything I want in it and for that matter a couple things that are not going to be reinstalled. So it was nothing but labor and paint supplies that was need. A cake walk compared to what I had been stuck with in the past. Now that I had everything, I wanted to take the boat down to the hull and install what was going back with everything else that was there in mind. I had to make a lot of changes over the years and now it was time to start with a fresh slate.
But there was one boat that I would hold off the 19’s rebuild for. The stars all fell in line and I ended up buying the Nova24 race boat. That put the 19 on hold as I tried to get what I could done on it before the it got cold.
I ended up spending a month between July and August fixing the trailer for the 24 and just as it came to an end the exhaust showed up for the Monza. Almost perfect timing.
And then the crap hit the fan. First time I took the Monza to the boat ramp it had such a gathering around it I thought it would be sold in a week when done. Well during an hour shake down ride the oil pump shuts down and the motor eats it’s self once again. Now you can see why I was done with that Mopar 360 years ago and it had to come out of the Nova. Not that I was pawning it off on anyone in the Monza but I thought, lighter boat and me not driving should have given it a good life. Not only that but when I rebuilt it I put a new crank, rods, cam, lifters, pushrods, lifters etc, etc, etc in it. The boat ran 48mph out of the box with a not so good prop. The timing wasn’t even tweeked before I watched the oil pressure gauge go from 40lb to 0. I though it was the gauge but it was the oil pump. Summit (who I bought the oil pump from) offered a 15% discount coupon for my problems. They suck!
So now it’s in line for a new motor but I was knee deep in the racebaot and I had to take time into account of what I could get done and what had to wait before it was time to go inside for the winter. Building a motor is an inside thing so it has to wait for winter but it’s behind two 454’s for the race boat so it might be spring or summer before it happens. Now what does this have to do with the 19? It’s looking like it may be fall or maybe even the following spring before it gets it’s turn. We’ll see. If all goes well there is not that much to do.
Beside all that Time Warp has a couple battle scars on her but the boat is “on it” as the neighbors say. Even to this day every time I start it I know its going to be fun and a few heads are going to turn along the way.
Soon will be time to put it away for the year and maybe I can feel a little less guilty about spending so much time working on the other two when I should be out burning gas with this bad ass.
10/24/2009
Boy this season just buzzed right by. I cant believe I have waited this long for an up date. But again I can.
This has not been the best year for boating. The spring started with 37 out of 42 days of rain. Pressure treated posts in the yard got mold on them it was so wet. And then there was the projects. The endless projects.
The Monza project went like clock work to the point of things were going to good. The whole thing was wrapped up in the early spring despite the rain. The only thing was missing was the exhaust. I had it found and bought but the seller was a maroon and took forever to get it to my house. As normal I counted my chickens before they hatched and moved on before I should have. Thinking that all was left was bolting on the exhaust and taking it for a ride I got this idea. It was so early in the season I though, lets get this crazy out idea of the way if it‘s going to happen.
The original plan was finish the Monza and use it while I re-did the Nova19. The 19 has everything I want in it and for that matter a couple things that are not going to be reinstalled. So it was nothing but labor and paint supplies that was need. A cake walk compared to what I had been stuck with in the past. Now that I had everything, I wanted to take the boat down to the hull and install what was going back with everything else that was there in mind. I had to make a lot of changes over the years and now it was time to start with a fresh slate.
But there was one boat that I would hold off the 19’s rebuild for. The stars all fell in line and I ended up buying the Nova24 race boat. That put the 19 on hold as I tried to get what I could done on it before the it got cold.
I ended up spending a month between July and August fixing the trailer for the 24 and just as it came to an end the exhaust showed up for the Monza. Almost perfect timing.
And then the crap hit the fan. First time I took the Monza to the boat ramp it had such a gathering around it I thought it would be sold in a week when done. Well during an hour shake down ride the oil pump shuts down and the motor eats it’s self once again. Now you can see why I was done with that Mopar 360 years ago and it had to come out of the Nova. Not that I was pawning it off on anyone in the Monza but I thought, lighter boat and me not driving should have given it a good life. Not only that but when I rebuilt it I put a new crank, rods, cam, lifters, pushrods, lifters etc, etc, etc in it. The boat ran 48mph out of the box with a not so good prop. The timing wasn’t even tweeked before I watched the oil pressure gauge go from 40lb to 0. I though it was the gauge but it was the oil pump. Summit (who I bought the oil pump from) offered a 15% discount coupon for my problems. They suck!
So now it’s in line for a new motor but I was knee deep in the racebaot and I had to take time into account of what I could get done and what had to wait before it was time to go inside for the winter. Building a motor is an inside thing so it has to wait for winter but it’s behind two 454’s for the race boat so it might be spring or summer before it happens. Now what does this have to do with the 19? It’s looking like it may be fall or maybe even the following spring before it gets it’s turn. We’ll see. If all goes well there is not that much to do.
Beside all that Time Warp has a couple battle scars on her but the boat is “on it” as the neighbors say. Even to this day every time I start it I know its going to be fun and a few heads are going to turn along the way.
Soon will be time to put it away for the year and maybe I can feel a little less guilty about spending so much time working on the other two when I should be out burning gas with this bad ass.
The wrong side of the Bay Bridge for me.
Outside of Annapolis, 30 miles of open water from home in a 19' SuperNova.
No Fear, Lets Go!
New Decade, New Motor
Jan thru May - 2010
Time to kick this thing in the ass.
10/26/2010
It’s been a long year.
It started off with so much hope and…………
The spring and summer was awesome. What little I did use it. Admittedly I spent way to much time on the race boat but it had to be done. The 496 was O.K. I did finally break the 60mph mark and that was a goal that has been on going for 10 years. I have a bit of a problem keeping the prop hooked up. The bow is heavy again. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. Couple ideas. Some mild, some wild.
But then late August came and for no reason I end up with a major issue.
I had the boat out all night the time I took it out before. Ran like a top. For that matter it ran it’s best it had since I put the motor in it. The next day I flush the motor in the yard on the hose and again, perfect.
It sits a couple weeks being I went on vacation and some other things going on (ya, the race boat). But the day comes that a ride is needed so down to the ramp I go. Start the boat and let it settle down a couple minutes. I leave and didn't get 50 feet from the bulkhead and it started. Snap, snap, snap. Not sure what it was but the motor had no power and it sounded nasty. I never even got the boat on plane. Maybe 2500rpm’s at most. It could be a turned around roller lifter or a broken spring but I never fooled with it since. I know it is a major undertaking to pull the top half apart and the time ticked by and it was already Sept. So I winterized the motor and put the boat away for the year.
Did I give up? Ya, I did. I have my reasons. Thousands of them.
I ended up with a couple gallons of water in the boat the last night I was out. Not being a prick about it but my boats don't leak. At all. A couple gallons and might as well be sinking. For some reason the transom shield is leaking.
Another thing I did the night I was out was look the boat over hard. Spent a lot of time working on the Monza that is just finished and near perfect and the race boat that hasn't even seen the water yet is perfect so everything I looked at on the 19 was not so perfect and needed to be redone. Something’s have to go, something’s have to be changed. I really want to go with the minimal look. I may even change the color. The interior needs to be redone. Different seats. Just a total makeover.
Found the right compass for the boat last night.
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The Great Makeover
December 29, 2010
So many plans. So now it’s time to make them start to happen. If not during the winter I'll never be ready for spring.
I've been a busy little shopper. Anything that I think needs to be replaced without actually taking the boat apart I am trying to get stacked up. The funny thing is, I plan on taking more away then replacing but I'm still spending to much money. But it does need a new horn and parking light socket with a cover. Handle for the motor cover. Side mount controller. That one is going to be a little tricky. I have a cheap controller on the way to work out all the logistics but it has to happen somehow to get the controller off the dashboard.
Got new glass for the windshield. Not sure if I am going to powder coat the windshield frame or try to polish it.
Getting rid of the whole dash and layout. I've tried it 3 times with the dark gray and black. Just kind of looks cheap. I would have kept the first try with the metal paint that came out nice but it all cracked and flaked off the first year.
This time I'm going for a whole new look. Elegance, money, class, whatever you want to call it. I have a $50 solid red oak board in the garage for a start that I have been letting dry for the last couple months. I'm thinking black gauges in the center, switches on the left side of the steering wheel, maybe a wood steering wheel that matches the dash panel. That's why the controller has to be moved to the side.
I also have new front seats more to scale with the boat. The other seats just felt small and lost in the cockpit. These should fill up the space and be a lot more comfortable. I also added new sliders and mounts to the seats. The one's that are there now suck. Neither locks in place and you have to get out of the seat and push it forward from the back just to move it. So they would stick when you wanted them to move and move when you wanted it to stay.
Now the hard part is finding vinyl to match the seats. Should have thought of that before but they were such a good deal.
I also picked up a set of 496 exhaust. I know, I should be thinking more about fixing the motor instead of trying to upgrade it but this was another great eBay buy I couldn't pass on. $300.00 for the whole system and the old exhaust has a good home (the race boat) to go to.
So it really is beginning. The race boat is almost a done deal (he says with his fingers crossed) and then it’s balls to the wall on the 19. The reason all this has happened.
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Winter Sucks
December 31, 2010
Spent most of the last two days getting the interior and dashboard out. You would think it was easy enough but the last two days have been the first days above freezing for about the last six weeks.
Time to start to come clean on the 19. This thing is a mess. Most wouldn't find it that bad but I know everything that is wrong with it. From the rotted dash to the cushions in the back acting like giant sponges. But then there is the stuff that I suspected but really had no clue. Like when I was jumping cruise ship wakes and did an awful landing. The radio popped completely out of the dash and apparently at the same time cracked the dash support panel. There is a control cable showing metal. Wiring that needs some sprucing up. Just a lot of stuff.
So to get the rear seats out I had to take the exhaust manifolds off. Not something I wanted to do but had to do. Now they are off they can be set up for the race boat so it was a plus.
I didn't see any oil in the exhaust runners or a valve sticking out so that again its a another plus and off my mind. It’s killing me not to know what is wrong with the damn thing. Should have been the best motor I ever built with all the money and time in it.
Just to get things started I got a master gasket set (cheaper then buying head gaskets alone) so I am prepared no matter how far I have to go down inside it. That and a “good” oil pump and pick up, new head bolts and another Edelblock intake gasket. For some reason the stock gasket for the intake never works right in this motor.
The seat rails came in and they will have to be slightly modified.
The buying list is growing shorter but the labor list is getting much longer.
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Getting Started
January 6, 2011
I know it’s the middle of winter but what better time is there? Nothing better to do then to close up the garage, turn the heat on high and start knocking some of this stuff out.
A lot of boxes are showing up at the door and making a lot of trips to the Home Depot and other suppliers but don't have a lot to show for it.
This week started off with a trip to the upholstery store and searching through everything they had. The sample I picked looks very close to the seats but being I was in the flooring world for 20+ years and I know about dye lots. It’s either going to be a perfect match or………. Let’s just say I have my fingers crossed.
Just tonight I picked up an industrial sewing machine and a piping attachment on eBay cheaper then it would have cost to have someone make the matching piping alone and I get to keep the tools. I'm pretty familiar with these types of machines being they are a lot like carpet binders. It’s older then I am but it has been gone over and tuned up. If these machines are taken care of in the simplest way they last forever. Some of the best binders we ever had were from the late 60’s to early 70’s and I didn't even get in the business until the mid 80‘s.
The vinyl was supposed to come in today but hasn't shown yet. I'm not ready for it yet anyway but at least things are moving along. I still have to strip the old backer boards, make all new templates of the seats and dash pad. Then cut all the new wood before I can do anything. So I figure next week if the sewing machine comes in by then I will get started on it.
It’s easy how you can spend a day on one simple thing. These slides I bought for the seats were supposed to fit but guess what? So it took some serious modifications to make them fit the cradles. The slides are actually inside out. The release bar is supposed to go on the inside. It don't now. To make them thin enough I had to make it work on the outside of the slides. A little backyard engineering to work it all out.
Just to make sure they don't rust where they meet the deck I dipped the feet on liquid rubber a couple times. They now have a coating on them like a pair of pliers handles. Now I can be up on the wheel or laid back with a flip of a bar. Sounds simple but if your crap don't work you know its a pain in the ass.
Being I have a 454 or two sitting around for the race boat in the garage, after rebuilding and painting the 496 manifolds I bolted up the one side so I could build a bracket for the remote oil filter. Don't like the way Merc’s 496’s have their oil filters upside down. With a Ziploc bag I can take my current filter off without a drop anywhere. Their filter set up, upside down, there’s not a chance. The bilge will look like there was a oil drilling rig accident so that has to go. So I built this mounting block so the oil filter will be about in the same place it is on a 454. It's solid enough I could pick the motor up with it.
My dashboard muse.
I've been looking for some direction and I think I've found it.
January 9, 2011
Still dead of winter. Insanely cold out. What better time to work on a boat? This is why when it warmed up to the mid 30’s a couple weeks ago I got what I needed to get out of the boat. You wouldn't see me out there today with temps in the brisk 20’s that’s for sure.
With not much planned due to the upholstery and everything else that goes with it not being here Saturday started off kind of slow. I then realized that I had everything to do the dashboard with so I got it started thinking it would take a couple days.
Started off with a clean piece 1X8 red oak. I am trying to make it have a red tint when finished so the red oak should work nice. Lucky enough I had the old dashboard so it was as simple as tracing it out to get the shape.
A couple simple tools like a skill saw, jigsaw, drill, number of bits and a router with a ½ rounding over bit, measure it six times and it was time to cut it....once........I hope.
After a number of hours and a few design changes this is what I came up with. It kind of looks the same as it did but at the same time I took a few ideas from the Monza (see the “Missing Year” on the movie page). I liked the way it turned out in the Monza but that time I had to follow the existing layout. This time I laid it out the way I thought it would look the best after a lot of thought. Real basic, simple and clean.
Then the staining began. Not sure what was going on but the stain’s reaction with the wood was not the best. Many, many tries to get it right. Not sure if it’s right yet.
I also re-stained the steering wheel to match and give it a little bit of a shine.
I spent about an hour pealing this off the layer of plastic it was on that was stuck to the old dash. Sadly the star part didn't make it. Just way to many points to get back together of starched out vinyl.
At the moment I am building up marine poly to get it level and then I will wet sand and do the whole thing again with some clear poly.
January 14, 2011
You know the old saying, “the best laid plans…..”? Well, it happened.
Been working on the wood of the boat just to get it out of the way. There’s a lot of wood in this so called fiberglass boat. Some trim pieces, now the dash, the seat backers and side bolsters, all wood.
So just to get it all out of the way, the last couple days after wet sanding and doing Poly coats on the dashboard I have been stripping the old upholstery, getting patterns and cutting new wood. The dash was rotten ( I knew it was) so I had to start from scratch on that. Got it all done and then Thompson’s water sealed it all just for added insurance.
The bolsters were a different story. I remember from the last time I did this the wood for them was impossible to find. What’s the big deal? They are 10 feet long and only 3/8s thick. Not sure why but after 40 years they need a little help. So where ever the wood was bad at I fiberglassed them inside and out. The pad looks a lot worse then it is. They just hang on the sides of the boat so besides age spots they are perfect. Once I add new batting they will be like new again.
After the glued in bolts that attach everything to the boat dries they are ready for padding and vinyl.
The sewing machine also came in today. Pretty nice for the money. Hell it’s pretty nice for real money. 6 Layers of vinyl and it went through it like a knife through butter. Came with a bunch of other stuff. I cant wait to play with it.
Most of the vinyl stuff is here so I can get started on it as soon as I want. I figure this weekend some of it will happen. Again, just to get it out of the way.
The other trim pieces got sanded and refinished and seemed to come out fine. Even though the dash was beautiful, as you looked at it in the right light you saw what looked like water spots all over it. Like pox marks in the clear coat. More coats of poly and they would just come back again. So I stripped the whole thing down to wood again. I have to try again to get it right.
January 16, 2011
This dash is going to be the death of me. Stripped the whole thing again. Re-sanded down to wood. Used a different stain. Hit it wit the poly and it would bubble like a Coke. Striped it again. Sanded again down to the stain. Let it sit a night and poly’ed again. Same thing. So I sanded again and am using Park’s Super Glaze.
It’s pour on clear epoxy coating. Put a thin coat on it to “seal it up” according to the directions. Then another thin layer and another and another.
Still fighting bubbles. Not as bad but I gave up for the night. Tomorrow I will sand out the bad spots and cover the whole thing again. If it works it’s gonna be nice. If it don't, I'm thinking a can of black spray paint.
Besides replacing and fixing things to compensate for the thicker dash panel and trying to come up with an idea on how to mount the controller on the side bolster like it must be this time around (there’s no place on the dash for it) I've been working on the upholstery. As of today everything is here to do it and it‘s just sitting there ready to go. There is no time like the present so I cut all the foam to match the wood patterns. I still have to wrap them with batten before vinyl but the batten and vinyl happens in the basement and the boards and foam happen in the garage so it will get brought down and done as I need it.
Just to use up some of the roll of vinyl and see where I stand (they didn't have enough for 16 yards I originally wanted to order). If I could get both bolsters out of one eleven foot shot of the vinyl I'd be fine but if they had to use two eleven foot shot for the two of them things were going to be real tight.
I did get the two out of one shot so now I should be fine to finish the rest and maybe have a small chunk left over just in case.
January 20,2011
UGH!!!! The time and mess!!!!
The dashboard saga goes on. Six pours of the epoxy and still had bubbles in it. I have no clue WTF is going on. Just in the surface so I sanded then out and now I'm going to spray clear coat it. This is turning into a nightmare. Thank God it’s not spring and this thing was holding me up. I would be ready to burn it by now. I will light sand it again tomorrow and hit it with another coat of clear. I should be getting to the end with this thing and if not I just may put it away for a couple weeks just to get a fresh look at it later.
You don't realize how much room a couple seats take up when you don't have the room. Then to have this piece here and that piece there adds to the clutter. So I took another couple hours to get all the cushions covered with batten and a cloth mesh.
I know the seats are going slow. First I have to figure out what I want to do and second, learn how to do it. Then practice it with the limited amount of scraps that I have from the bolsters.
So I’m starting with just one seat base. I need lines in the vinyl spaced like the front seats but not as deep and I'm not doing the horizontal lines. They just wouldn't look right and to be honest there is not a way of doing it unless I buy this special pad that is soft on one side and hard on the other so it puffs up when the vinyl is sewed to it but that is more money and I‘I'm already $400.00 deep into just the upholstery. I also need to make a piping for all the vinyl seams just to make the seats look any sort of professional at all.
So each night after a little lesson in this and that I give it a try and if it looks right I do it to the bigger piece of vinyl I have cut out for the seat.
I picked up some 5/32 rope from home depot and used my carpet binder skills for a way to make the piping and it works good so the next thing was to put the whole thing together.
My first real, fitted seat cover.
I already have ideas on production improvements for the next one. Just not sure how to do the center seat. It’s a half moon shape and the lines and piping may look a little dated there.
January 22,2011
Once I really got started it only took a couple days to do it. The hardest part was just getting started.
I've done some upholstery before but nothing on this scale. This time instead of having 90 degree, raw, stitched corners I wanted something more like what would have come from a factory. Piping / welting at all the seams. Stitching pattern on the face of the seat that runs up and over the top of the backs. Also with the same stitching and spacing that will bring the front seats that I did buy from a factory into the fold so to speak.
It took a little bit of time to work out something simple I could do with my limited education in upholstery but not look to simple.
So I played with this and that until I got enough under my belt to do the seat above and be happy with it. Then it was on. I was getting faster the more I did. That’s 2 bolsters, 2 seat bases, 2 seat backs, 1 half moon motor box seat, 2 dash board accents and a dash pad in about 24 hours of work for them all (just upholstery wood and pad were another couple hours).
I also found when you use a lot of pieces of vinyl (one for the top, another for the sides, etc) instead of making a seat out of one piece and stitching it up you tend to use a lot less. I have a big chunk of vinyl leftover and here I thought I was going to be short.
People tell me the seat bolster I did on the race boat would have cost around 12 to 14 hundred to have done. To do this would have been a lot more money being there is a lot more vinyl and labor. I think $400 total for all of it and I get to keep the sewing machine and everything that goes with it to make it work and a nice chunk of vinyl to boot worked out nice.
I wish the picture would come out better. The vinyl looks shiny and plastic in the pictures when it’s really a softer gray and not as shiny. I went darker then what was in it before but that’s to hide some of the dirt. I have already replaced the rear seats twice in the old vinyl and they still look like hell after a few weeks being so light and people stepping on them to get in and out of the boat. Hopefully with the vents out of the way on the transom's deck and the darker vinyl they should hold up better this time.
Unless something needs to be changed everything that’s getting vinyl is done.
January 28, 2011
Had a couple minor setbacks the last few days. The biggest was that we lost power for about 36 hours (notice the date above). It’s amazing what you cant do without power. Like light, heat, water, etc, etc. Let alone the working on a boat when you have to shovel snow and then come back into a cold house.
The garage is also cold now and will take a day or so along with everything in it heat back up so I’m a little screwed up at the moment.
I am pleased to report that the dashboard was finished a couple days ago. I have it sitting and “hardening up” in the basement (Shanty Town). As far as I can tell there is no bubbles. There is a couple minor things in the top clear coat. Maybe the smallest grains of dust you have ever seen. Not sure but after a few days of letting the finish get solid I’m going to wipe it down with a stiff rag and call it a day. I think at this point I’m being a little critical and just need to let it go.
These vents are something I’m a little proud of. They look simple enough but they are different and most of all they are as close as to original as it gets. I have been trying to figure out what I was going to do back there. The 4 vents were just to much alone. Add in the two rod holders I used just to fill the holes (from the original vents come to find out later), the ski post, couple pop up cleats, there is way just to much going on. I’ve had a lot of plans on what to do but never was set on anything. So I did some research and found out what was there before and bang there it was. That’s what I wanted. Clean and simple.
February 1, 2011
Speaking of vents. Another venting idea hit me the other day cruising eBay. What was I going to do with basically drilled holes that are used to vent the front of the motor box. Never liked them and they are not original but I can see their purpose. So I picked up these.
I’m either going to use 3 behind the bench seat or one there and one under each rear seat. I’ve done it on Photo Shop but have to see it in person to make a final decision.
I’m also adding a outside the boat flush system. Dragging hoses over the bolsters is not any fun and always ends up scratching something or leaving a mark on the upholstery. Now it’s going to be as simple as plug and play. I still have to shut off the pick up in the bottom of the boat. I like the auto system but they are pricey and I haven’t found enough info to convince me they work all the time and what happens when they don’t. Also there’s a space factor. The oil pan is close to the hull. I may move the pickup for a little better access to the cut off valve but there still will be very little room for it.
Stuff is piling up.
February 7, 2011
Working on a couple small things at the moment. Nothing major.
I did find a prop finally. And get this, it’s not from eBay or a used one at all. Brand new from the factory and I didn’t have to hit the lottery or anything to buy it. Not sure why iboats let it go so cheap and it was their only one. There loss is my gain.
The prop is a Michigan Wheel - Rapture #163023 - Stainless Steel. From what I understand they are not bad props and this one is a 14.25X25P so it’s a great starting point and if I have to I can bend it up to a 27P if needed. The nicest thing about a new prop.
A few things have come in like the new transom shield seal, step pad for the front of the motor box, boring things. I am waiting on something special that has been missing ever since I have owned the boat but more on that later.
I was kind of worried about what is in the picture. It’s one of two original decals that named the boat. Seems like no big deal but it took a couple tries to get the right font look. Seems like not everyone’s fonts are the same but I found it and it’s off the list to do, all’s good. I’ll get new registration stickers to replace the ones I have to rip off to paint the boat when I register the race boat at Dept of Natural Resources tomorrow and that should be it for the decals.
February 8,2011
And here is that "something special"
The real deal and almost perfect.
February 15,2011
Still kind of waiting on stuff. Waiting on materials. Waiting on spring. Those kind of things.
I did get a new step pad for the front of the motor box. When you flip it forward it rests on the deck and before the last one it would rub the paint off where it met the deck. I fixed it with a small stair tread before. Looked fine but this new step pad has a neat shape and chrome frame around it. Should almost look like an accent piece the a rubber stop this time.
Finding the old name inspired me to get the registration numbers in the same style font. They are a little different but you wont be able to tell from the transom and the bow. I don’t like the spacing of the letters they have now so when I install them I’ll tighten them up some.

Then there is this side controller thing. You don’t know much wasted money and time I have in this. Nothing fits right in the boat and the side bolster was to thick, then the seat was in the way. I finally got sick of it all after buying a second, expensive controller and it not working I pulled out the saw, did some surgery and mounted my eBay test controller to the boats bulkhead. Then fitted the bolster over top of the bulkhead, found out what was needed to be cutout of the bolster’s back, took the bolster’s upholstery off, cut the hole in the wood, fiberglassed the backside because the 40 year old wood was only 4inches across at one point now, shaved the foam down so the swing of the control handle didn’t hit the bolster and it wasn’t to noticeable, then put it all back together.
I don’t think I'll be using this controller but this is what it will look like and now that it does work I can move on to other things. When I'm ready I can find another controler at my own pace.
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Trailer Time
February 16,2011
I think the next couple days I'm going to be working on the trailer. Nothing really major but needed none the less.
I really need to move the trailer's axle forward so the boat can come forward on the trailer but with this Shoreline that's not an option short of cutting the undercarriage off and re-welding it all back on.
The main issue and always has been is with the boat balance on the trailer. Like it is the rear rollers stop about a foot short of the transom. That puts all the weight of the rear half of the boat including the motor and drive on the glass bottom sheeting and not on something structural like the transom, keel or stringers. There is no way to use keel rollers at all with this trailer and the boat doesn't have stringers in the traditional sense so I am left with one option. Somehow making the roller cradle bigger……..SuperNova style.
Easy, much needed and put off way to long, fix.
February 20,2011
So I order a couple pieces of 2 and ¾ by five foot long galvanized, box beam a few days back and they came in yesterday. Had to go to the internet to find it. There is a shortage of “galvanized” metal for some reason. My local guys didn’t have anything at all.
Being it was close to 70 degrees in February I jumped on having something to do. So I took my box beams and my Harbor Fright drill press I never used before (I knew there was a reason I had to have it a couple months ago) and went to work. After pulling the old beam out of the trailer (with the boat on it) I copied all the bolt patterns on to the new beam. I’m not going to just spread out the two rollers on this long beam and hope for the best. I’m going to make it a three roller cradle and spread the weight around. Also the rollers will be able to support the keel area better with more surface contact.

So I drilled all my holes with my press and cut slots in the backside of the beams so I could get to the rollers bolts with a socket and ratchet. The drill press worked great about getting the holes directly across from side to side. Also no twisted wrists from the hand drill biting in the metal was an awesome thing. My wrists still hurt from drilling on the race boats trailer in the background.
I had to offset the center roller to the rear some due to a water pick up on the right side but all and all I think this set up will support the boat much better. I know it doesn’t take much to roll the boat off the trailer now. With the trailer level, a simple but firm shove and it rolls. That’s smooth and supported well.
One of the things that made this a lot easier then it could have been was that I replaced most of the shackles last summer during yearley routine maintenance. A couple of the steel pieces have rusted again but that happens every winter. A wire brush and a little primer and they will look good again.
Besides a little bit of rust this trailer is hardcore. Heavy duty springs, new buddy bearings, new heavy rated trailer tires and bunk rollers and now this new support system. I think I have it just where I want it now.
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Hold On
March 6, 2011
Just a quick update.
Seems like nothing is happening but it is in a covert way.
Normally I would have the motor out by now along with a few other things being I have some free time.
It’s also killing me to not know what happened to the damn motor last fall. But the garage is still packed with stuff form the race boat that’s also still sitting in the driveway waiting to be finished. Just waiting on that one missing part to be sent back to me and everything can go back in the boat. Until then there is no place for another torn apart boat.
I did order the couple things that finished up my must have list this winter. One was the paint.
This time after much debate I will start by shooting a couple coats of High Build Primer before I paint to seal it all up. Before now it was rattle can and blending with sandpaper. I’m sure there will be some of that this time to but a couple days before paint the whole thing is getting a primer coat and then sanded again before final paint. A first for me on a boat. Then I'm using Viper Red for the hull and Pure White for the top. To top it off I'm going to shoot a couple coats of Clear Coat to make it all pop.
Something is going to start soon if it means rearranging the garage and sticking the race boat in the side yard.
I’m not going to let these days slip by.
March 19, 2011
March is being not as warm as I would like. That and I still have the race boat issue but progress has been made on it's completion.
I do need it to warm up enough to inject the foam in the strikes. This time I not playing. All of them from front to back are going to be filled. Even the smaller ones up by the bow. The strikes were just not made well enough to hold up under the 40 years of pounding and the occasional log. The strikes are also made much thinner then the rest of the hull. Now they will be filled solid with closed cell foam that is impervious to gas, oil or about anything but it doesn't expand to well in under 70 degrees and there is so much of it to do.
I did get the lights on the trailer and also made a licence plate bracket out of aluminum. The last couple of plastic and tin all broke for some reason. I don't think it will have that issue anymore.
Starting, I Guess
April 4, 2011
One way or another I’m going to get one of these two boats (19 or the 24) done in the next couple months and it looks like it wont be the 24 due to a few unsolved issues.
So it’s time to get started. The only problem is, it’s was cold as ….. out for March and April has started off the same way. Except for one day. All the way up to 75* and that was warm enough to do one of the first steps.
Been wanting to do this since I fixed the one strike a couple years back. Long story short, all the strikes are hollow and have been damaged many times over the years. Small floating debris strikes at 50mph is a big impact. Times that by almost 40+ years and there is damage that I couldn’t even find. Tiny crack here, little pin hole there. I’ve tried a thousand times to make the strikes water tight but water always ends up in them somehow.
So I got out a bunch of saved Dear Park sports bottles and some PVC hose and made up some disposable injection bottles. Drilled all my holes spaced about 18 to 24 inches apart and then started making batches of foam. Enough to let it flow and expand but not so much that it over expanded and wouldn't travel up the strike. After it set up I would then inject another batch in the next hole moving from the stern to the bow.
I got it in all the way up to the last hole by the red paint and then shot in a small batch and let it push as far as it could up the strike. I wasn’t going to drill holes in the red for obvious reasons.
After they were all filled with foam I then ground out the originals holes and added three layers of fiberglass as the day came to an end. It was going to get cold again the next day so the last layer went on in the dark.
I am so happy I did this. I found a crack that I would have never found in the main strike on the drivers side and one of the smaller strikes had about 12 inches of the seam starting to leak along with one of the back corners had 3 small cracks. All so small that I never saw a wet spot on the hull from water leaking out as it sat on the trailer or never saw a crack but they were there and now they are fixed and filling the strikes has to add support overall to the hull and a tiny bit of flotation to boot.
The next couple days I plan on getting the boat off the trailer and doing the bottom first. I just want to get some of the hard stuff out of the way first.
April 7, 2011
Since it has become official that the race boat is not going to be finished …….well I guess until sometime in the future the prime work spot has been taken over for the Great Makeover.
Already having the gantry built so I could install the motors in the race boat I might as well get another use out of it for the time being. Never thought about using one it on the 19 until the day I was building it and then it dawned on me, why not. Getting the boat off the trailer was half the battle for the bottom work. Last time I did work to the bottom it sat on the trailer the whole time. Took a lot of days and a lot of bloody knuckles just to strip it and painting….that’s whole other story.
I knew stripping it was going to be a bitch 4 years ago when I had to fix a spot and four years later it totaly lived up to it. The paint came off like tar. No matter how fast or slow you had the grinder set at. Light or hard touch on the hull. You only got a square foot before the paper was all gunked up with what the best I can describe as liquid rubber that had dried.
Having the boat on blocks made figuring out how to do it a lot easier though. I had room to move and moving was the name of the game.
The way it had to come off was like this.
First, go over area with the 7” grinder, set on medium speed and using a 24 grit sanding disk. That’s right I said a 24 grit disk. Basically rocks glued to paper. Light pressure and just cutting the top of the paint off. Back and forth at a quick pace and then move on. The key was not getting the paint to hot from friction. Just enough to grab chunks and spit it off.
Second, after so many feet you would need a new disk no matter what. Install a new 24 grit disk. Go over area already done in the same fashion then cut the top of another section of paint until gunked up.
Third, new disk, go over first section for a third time and then on to second section for a second time. Then more cutting of fresh paint.
Forth, repeat, repeat, repeat…..until done.
After ten hours you have absolute destruction. You also have been speckled from head to toe with hot molten paint. You ground the piss out of your hull with 24 grit grinding disks that would grind a cinderblock to dust in 30 seconds. Add in a couple oops…. I have lots of work to do.

I figured it wouldn't be easy but to be where I am at now is a lot better then the dread I was feeling before I started this whole bottom project. I knew it was going to be bad but I always wanted to do this no matter how bad it was going to be. It's also is one of the main objectives to this whole makeover. When the boat is running the only thing that matters besides the motor is the wetted surfaces. This boat’s bottom hull condition was always it’s weakest link even with me re-doing it on the trailer once. I mean at one point in this boats life it had barnacles grow on the hull. Lots of them. Been painted a few times. There’s only so much you can do with a trailer in the way. This time every tiny thing is getting fixed. Every strike sharpened, the transom sharpened and one last thing, I’m taking the hook out of the hull. I guess you can say I’m blueprinting the hull in a way. Just upside down and I've never done it before.
With all the paint gone I can get a much better look at the hook in the hull. The hook is not as bad as it looked when painted but it's still there and explains a lot on how the boat handles. I almost wish I could try a test ride just after fixing it to see what happens but like normal there will be some other changes like some motor work is going to be done and then there is this new prop. It’s supposed to be the cat’s meow for Volvo’s. It’s a Solas 15 3/8 X 21L. Kind of small in pitch but that’s what's supposed to work if I run an Volvo 24P Ultra the way I do. If not I can use it on the Monza and get a 23P for the Nova. I’m just happy to see someone making a new prop these days for a Volvo Penta.
April 4, 2011
To much Bondo???
Been making good progress the last couple days.
I found tons wrong but at the same time I expected it. It just happens to be in different areas that I though I was going to have issues with. The front strikes have taken a beating. Not sure from what. It’s not like I beach the boat or run up on rocks at all and the trailer makes loading and un loading a breeze and never makes contact but the strikes are jacked for some reason. They will require a day by themselves to finish them to like new.
The main strikes are not that bad. There is the one spot back by the transom and the reason I filled them with foam to start with. The patch is in but the jack stand sits on the spot so it will have to wait until I have it back up on the trailer.
All the corners of where any fiberglass meets another fiberglass piece is getting a finger smear of Bondo fiberglass (using a drywall finishers term) to “point up” up the corners. I am also using the fiberglass filler for anything deeper then the thickness of a sheet of paper.
Then there is all the red Bondo. No, I’m not building a boat out if it and the hull is not that bad. I've learned this trick off of T.V. Who says it just rots your brain? Every show I see folks doing body work rebuilding cars and such they always cover the whole fender, car or whatever in the stuff and then sand everything off that is not needed. I don’t know if this is for speed or just so they don’t miss anything but even though my arms feel like rubber after doing both sides, I like it. After doing the first side and sanding it out I found it only needs about an hour of work to finish it off. A lot better then going over and over finding a new spots that you missed over and over. Sadly doing both side is equal to doing a whole car. A whole car that is glued to the ceiling and you are on the floor.
March 16,2011
Half of the week was totally rained out and the other few days were questionable but I moved ahead anyway. Not like it was going to hurt anything.
The bottom was…wow! I had no clue. I think I could make a hobby just fixing and fixing and fixing. At the same time I may be over doing it, but what the hell, how often am I going to do this.
I found the hull had a hook in it on the passenger side for almost 3 feet long and almost a ½” deep at one point. The driver’s side was better with only a ¼” hook at it’s deepest.
It’s hard to explain how the hull was built in this boat, so I wont but because of the way it was built only half of each side had the hook and the deepest part was only at a single point over the 3 feet but I did take an enormous amount of the hook out that’s for sure.
I also took out the motor’s water pickup and filled in the whole. It has to be moved. I will be able to plug the flushing hose into the back of the boat with the fresh water inlet but will still have to crawl under the motor to shut the intake valve off………ah no. Not sure where I’m going to put it yet but I knew it’s not staying there so the hole is fixed.
I’m not using bottom paint this time. I am using Rust-oleum Topside with a special activator that will make it dry fast, harden up more and add gloss. The only thing, if the additive is inhaled it may kill me….just kidding. I will be rolling the paint (ya, ya, ya - it’s the bottom and I will be using a special and proven technique to make it looked sprayed) but if I was spraying this stuff I would basically need a fresh air supplied bio-hazard suit to use it. Bad stuff.
The plan is over the weekend to try to get a couple coats of paint on it so I can get it back on the trailer the first of the week and then I can finish the places that it sits on now.
March 20, 2011
It didn’t turn out to bad and a hell of a lot better then it was.
The additive for the Topside paint was the best. Made the paint in 24 hours harden up like a rock and is already as hard as any two part paint I have sprayed already. There is a couple spots to finish after it is moved off the blocks and there is the transom but the best part is I can whip out a brush and after a couple coats you will never know the difference. The transom will have to wait until I get the drive and shield off the boat. Plenty of time for that.
I also put new axel shackles and plates on the trailer. 30 bucks and about 20 minutes without the boat sitting on it. To simple not to do.
Why did I add a picture of my trailer jack? It has always been put on the other side. Even the one I put on it. Always had to step over the trailer tongue to lower or raise the trailer with the jack when hooking and unhooking it. Just one of those stupid pains in the ass I that never dawned on me to fix. Now it is.
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Needed Dash Work
April 21, 2011
Now the real fun begins.
This poor dash board has been cut up so many times it’s starting to look like Swiss cheese. I've had two dash set ups and there is the one that came with the boat that had a bunch of holes cut in it already. Earlier I built the “dashboard” it’s self that covers this mess but there was no way I was just going to cover this up. Also there is the issue of the crack that happened last summer after nose-diving the boat in some 5 foot rollers coming off a cruise ship. Everything has to and is getting fixed. Seen or unseen.
Instead of cutting the whole back off the dash like I would have liked to do I decided to take a different path. It’s not like it rotten or anything. Just a lot of holes and two major ones right in the middle where the most stress is from the weight of the deck. It was only a matter of time before it broke and it did. So for the most part I replaced the missing parts.
I did cut out a large section out of the middle (about two feet by the full height) but for the rest I just cut out patterns of the missing wood. Then smeared both edges with gel epoxy and jammed them in. After that set up I then used the left over syringes from the epoxy to inject mixed epoxy into any of the gaps that remained. When I did put the wood in I recessed it from the face the depth of the fiberglass that’s on the face.
I then cut all the patterns out in fiberglass and proceeded to fill in all the missing shapes with glass until it came to the top and then added a couple layers that were over the ground down edges of the face glass. That only took about 50 layers. I then ground everything down again. Making it level all the way across. I also did this on the inside while holding all the wiring out of the way at the same time. Now that is some real fun.
Then it got really fun. Installing 5 layers of fiberglass across everything on the backside while again holding all the wiring out of the way, laying on your back while fiberglass resin dripped on ya. An unforgettable experience. It was all down hill from there. Another 8 layers on the face across everything, let it all set up and then a light sand down. I even went as far to hit it with a layer of glass Bondo just to “finish” it off. Another light sanding and a couple coats of primer before I closed the garage door for the night.
Already for the new cut outs.
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Hull Repairs
March 26, 2011
Let's get this thing fixed.
With the dash done it was time to move on to other things and yes there is a method to my madness.
There is a couple day long projects that need to be done that all start with the removal of the deck plate that the motor box is screwed to. No deck plate and the motor box just flips over. It wouldn't be a big deal but the motor box’s wood had to come out and be replaced with foam. The best way to do that is with it standing on end so the foam will sink to the bottom before expanding. It was naturally the thing to do next.
Ran some cuts down each side and across the top of both boards and pealed back the delaminated fiberglass sheet. Got all the wet and rotten wood out with a lot of hammer and chiseling. Cleaned it all up and used some duct tape to put it all back together. Then poured in the foam and let it do it's magic.
I got the smaller of the boards done (just trying to figure out how to do it) and started on the bigger one and ran out of foam. I could have sworn that I had another gallon in the garage but I don't. It’s now on order and will be here in a couple days.
Even though the foam pushed out the bottom panel a little (more sound deadener) it was a simple grind down the edges with a disk grinder and then a couple layers of fiberglass. About as much as the thickness of the bottom sheet. The nice thing about this foam stuff is it grabs with what ever it comes in contact with. The bottom sheet is more adhered to the foam now then it would be if you put the foam down first and then laid glass over it.
So time to move on to a little more destruction or what I like to call “foam prep work.”
The front deck. It's almost as bad as the dash with it's holes. Any repair in the past is coming out. And around all those past repairs the underside fiberglass is coming out and any water affected wood is also going to be removed. Then I will put the underside glass back together and then fill the whole area with foam to start the repairs.
April 29, 2011
More destruction on the inside for the last couple days. I’m kind of glad I didn’t have the foam or I would be doing it and I wouldn’t be this far along on the bow deck.
It has been a major pain to say the least. I have found things wrong that I didn’t fix and it all was done half ass. Nothing from the factory leaked. Everything added after did. A simple little cleat that someone put in decades ago and was removed before I got it did all the damage in the pictures About a 3 X 3 area of rotten or wet wood. The wild thing is the area next to it is not affected at all. Like brand new wood so this foam thing is the perfect solution. If not for it the top would have to come off the boat and the whole underside would have to come off and be replaced and that’s if you could keep the deck’s shape intact when doing it.
So I take out my 4 and ½ inch grinder with a steel cut off wheel on it. It’s amazing how easy it goes through glass to the depth you want. Cut three slashes in the dead spot area. You can hear it when tapping on the deck’s underside and the bad spots all correspond with something installed in the deck. Then pry off the bottom layer of glass. Not as easy as you would think being I cut back far enough for solid wood so it’s attached real well.
Then it’s hammer time (and chisel). I also have a bent piece of rod for digging in the corners.
Clean up all the area all the way back to where it meets glass or is into dry solidly attached wood. All within the space of about 14 inches in height.
The worst was the very point of the bow. Another 10lbs on me and I would have never got there.
As of this repair I am all the way back to the windshield for gutting and setting up for the foam pouring. I should be done with this one tomorrow and I think there is one more small one to do. The nice thing about it is anything that goes through the deck now will be surrounded by foam that is impervious to water or about anything else. So even with sealant failure there should never be anymore damage from water.
On the foam it’s self, the seat I did on the motor cover is insanely strong. Just as I figured. Like the strikes in this boat or the stringers in the race boat this is one of the greatest things for boats since they put a motor in one.
May 4, 2011
Lots have been going on and I’m going to have to make it a short update somehow.
I got all the bad spots cut out of the bow’s deck. After that it took some creative ways to do some upside down fiber glassing while holding everything in place until it dried. After a couple days all the inner liner was back where it should be with the wood removed from behind it.
When the foam came in I was waiting on the first thing I needed to finish was the motor cover. Just to get it out of the way.
After many pours it was filled and I put it all back together with new glass. I then found out that it was a bit to thick and hit the top of the motor. Glad the motor was still there for this even though I would rather it was gone. It didn't take much to dish it out and then laid another layer of glass over the whole thing. So what I thought was going to be a quick and easy accomplishment turned into a all day adventure but I'm happy with the results. This time I plan on painting the inside of the box so you will never see what you see now.

On to more foaming. This was a bit different. Normally you just pour or inject it in and let it do it’s thing. This time I had to provide vents for different areas under the deck due to angles and the foam had to go to every square inch of missing wood. No vents and the foam would built up pressure and left voids. So just like the strikes, I used some lengths of pvc tube, a little Pam to get them to slide in and to pull out when they got locked in with foam, and a couple Deer Park sports bottles. Mix it up and squirt it in.
So it was an injection here and let it blow up, another injection to fill up the rest and have it blow out all over the place (that way i was sure it was filled). From there it was workable in about 10 minutes and the next day it seemed even harder or full strength.
After filling all the voids and before I could start any of the fiberglass I had to strip the deck. The non slip stripes came off horrible. First rubber came off and then glue, it all had to go. When the white paint started to chip off I realized that all the white paint had to come off. I mean every square inch had to go and even the primer underneath. The first layer has always had issues and they have come to an end now that ist's gone.
May 8, 2011
Then the fiberglass work began. At least 20 layers of fiberglass cloth built up to fix any thru hull repairs. I'm not taken any chances this time and having gravity in your favor made the glass work easy. Still having wet resin when I was out of repairs was a first for me in many weeks. So it went real quick and easy. After I got that ground down I then did a layer of fiberglass Bondo over the major repairs.
Just like the bottom I an going over everything with the red Bondo as if it was a finishing putty. Lots of sanding to do but this time I'm not going to take any chances that I missed something. That and the deck is full with pox marks and I am also finding ever little snap and screw repair that has been done over the last 35 years. All will get a few layers of new glass over them and then again the fiberglass Bondo before the red stuff. I forgot about all the different hurricane tops that were installed on this thing. Everyone just adding new snaps. I have about 25 of them to fix.
To prep it for the rest of the white paint removal I started to take some stuff off. By the time it was done everything but the docking lights and the ALLMAND on the sides were gone off the boat. This is the first time I have looked at the transom's deck with nothing on it in a decade.
all the white is gone except for the motor box and around the windshield. I have a few days of repairs before I will to take it off so I'm holding out for the last minute. The motor box need some modifications for the new hinges so I will strip it when I take it out of the boat.
Just progress. Nothing big going on.
May 13, 2011
Man, the weather just wont cut me a break.
A couple days it will be nice and you just start getting into things and bam another three days of rain. Either way I'm still getting done but man what a can of worms I opened.
First to discover that all the white paint had to come completely off and then to discover what was underneath it. OMG!!!!
It took the better part of a day to just strip the hardware off of all the white areas. Then it was time to figure out what was going back and where. After a little while about the only thing I was sure of was the bow cleat was going back in the same spot and the front pop up light was going back. I was going to put the original bow eye/cleat support and bow light back in but then realized that I didn't like it so pushed up on the nose like it was. So I'm back to doing it the way it was but for the rest of the stuff I'm not sure so I'm closing up everything. I mean I know the rear cleat is going where the other one was but the hole seems to be off a little and the rear vents are going in but just a little over from where the old holes were cut out at. So instead of screwing with it I'm done with it.
So with this transom lid a lot had to be fixed. The holes for the pop up cleats (notice the big crack running from the seat corner to the hole for it), 4 vents, 2 rod holders (ya, rod holders, came with the boat and never took them out), ski pole and gas fill with a number of other damaged areas.
The process is to route out any cracks or even jell stress cracks and then fill with a 2 part epoxy, let that set up and grind off any excess. Then it's on the fiberglassing. For the pop up cleats I still had the hole that was cut out (I keep anything I cut out of the boat) and I just put them back in with a lot of epoxy. I'm not going to be able to get to the corners to fiberglass the underside so the epoxy took care of that. The rest I had to use the wonder foam. It's as strong as plywood core and adhesion was always perfect with the foam. Add in that the area was horizontal for a change it was to easy not to do. I will be able to do the underside of these with fiberglass but it can wait until the motor is out. That has to happen soon.

This is not the only area that needs this kind of work . The front deck looks like you beat it with a chain. After the paint came off every repair showed it's ugly face. Forty plus hurricane top snap holes to repair alone. Grind out, layers of glass, glass bondo, finishing bondo, sand, sand, sand.
I did the whole area the same way I did the bottom. Basically embossing the whole thing in putty. Sand almost all of it off and find the bad spots. Then start working on them. That's where I'm at now. I think I need a full day to wrap up the white area and then I can move on to the red. I hope it's a lot easier. Oh, I forgot that I still need to do the motor box. Add another day.
May 19, 2011
Fixing everything that has been fixed over the last 38 years is starting to be a pain in the ass.
I always throw out large numbers of things repaired like over 40 hurricane top snap screws this day. Another 30 spots on that day and I always think people doubt that it is really that many.
So this time I counted on the transom.
95 holes total.
9 don’t require any repair,
84 do require repair,
3 hole will be re-drilled but at different locations.
Before you install anything please think long and hard about it. Six sending units installed on the transom over the years is insane.
May 25, 2011
Hull work, hull work, hull work.
Just like the white all the red paint had to come off. For the most part it was stuck good but there was places that you could get under with a putty knife and strip of six inches. I’m kind of shocked. The paint has been on for 10 years and never had an issue. Go figure. I wish it would have been good to go but at least now it’s all gone and I wont have to worry about it ever again.
With stripping the red paint came all the prep work to get it ready for paint. It had to have set me back at least a week.
With that done though the next thing had to go was the transom shield. The only way to get that was to pull the motor and outdrive. And so it happened.
After I got a chance to fix all the spots I had fix but on the inside. What a pain but everything got a couple layers of fiberglass just to seal everything up.
I also gat a chance to fix all the transom shield bolt holes. It’s not rotten but over 40 years and me putting shield after shield and bigger and bigger motors in it the holes are starting to crush. Mainly because of to small washers being used and cranking down on the bolts to much because of a old seal. It all got ground out and layer after layer of glass to make it level with the rest of the transom. When I install the drive the next time I’m going to cut some aluminum stock and make some extra large washers to spread the load around.
With the rest of the hull almost ready for primer I left the motor box until last.
I call it the hump. I had to wait until the motor was out before I could take it out of the boat and it’s the last thing that will be needed to be stripped, fiberglass repaired, fiberglass Bondo’ed and then finish Bondo’ed. Tomorrow I should be able to finish it even though I spent most of a day on it already. I look at it all the time and though I knew what was wrong with it but after getting it apart I discovered I was wrong. Couple major cracks, vent holes had to be filled in or cut out bigger for the new vents, the new hinges had to be shimmed with glass so they sat flat on the box. Then of course the same process used on the hull and this was on the outside. On the inside I ringed all the outside edges about three inches up with three layers of glass just to strengthen it and fill all the pop rivets holes from holding on the vinyl edging.
I hope tomorrow I'll get all the loose ends cleaned up and have it ready for primer the next day.
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Paint Hell
June 14, 2011
It’s been a couple weeks since the last update for a few reasons.
First, I went to Maine for 9 days and it was just in time to.
Why just in time? If I wouldn’t have gone I think I would be looking at a pile of ashes in the yard.
Prep work out the ass. More Bondo and sanding then I have ever done before. From 32 grit to 1000 grit. Block sanding for what seemed like for ever. Shoot a high build primer. Block and wet sand another insane amount. Tape the boat up. Shoot the red........ OMG! I can see everything. Every tiny repair. I wait a day block sand everything again. Take what Viper Red paint that I'm using and mix it with what Flame Red (slightly darker) I have left over from the stripes on the Monza. Shoot it again. Looks better but no where as good as I need it to. Wait another day. Block sand again but now I’m out of red paint that I couldn’t match anyway.
I only had 2 days left before I left for vacation so I shot the white. Not the best performance or result. I think it was to hot and it was setting up to fast. Now I have no time left and I have to leave it like it was. At that point I was done. It was best to walk away.
While I was away though the whole time I thought I would have to re-shoot everything again.
So after my time away. I get back with new energy and after another hard look I still think the white has to be re-shot but I'll gave it a try to fix it. After some color sanding it was not looking that bad. So I did a little touch up and let it sit for another day. Then prepped up the red area again being the now Candy Apple Red (even more darker) I ordered when on vacation came in.
Today I re-shot the red. Not to bad. The only thing was it was a little cool out today so the paint was still a little soft for the rest of the day so I decided to not do any other work to the boat besides a couple touch up spots on the bottom paint.
Tomorrow I'll give the touch up spots on the white some wet sanding and the red a good color sand and then it’s on to clear.
June 19, 2011
Even though it started to rain half way through the first coat of clear and made me stop for the day. The clear has been done. No matter what it’s now on to something else. lol
It didn’t turn out to bad. One thing, I’ll never spray clear outside again. Bugs I’ve never seen before came out of nowhere and found their way into my clear coat. Lucky I used a one part paint as a basecoat. If I have to I can polish the clear completely off but I don’t think it will come to that.
The red came out near perfect. It was almost a waste of time to clear coat it but I also wanted to cover the black where it met the red to seal that edge so after a color sanding so the clear would stick it had to be done.
I’ll work on the white again in a little while. I think a good compound and wax will fix it up. No matter what it’s a 1000 times better then what was there and I have to move on before I go insane.
It is amazing how well this boat looks even when it was at it’s worst. I’m looking over the movie of the rebuild and still kind of shocked on some of the stuff that needed to be fixed. I looked at it as if everything was broken, rotten or just wrong. It will be really hard to show someone a picture of the before and say I spent a few months fixing………..well everything…..
After the clear went on I then realize I got nothing to do unless I can get in the boat. Ahhhhh, no. That’s not gonna happen. So I decided if I cant get in the boat to work I’ll bring parts of the boat out side.
It started with a hatch cover. There is a total four. There used to be three at one time in the past but someone decided to cut one in half so they could use the space underneath. Good idea but the thing is they never put a corner back on the fiberglass. So basically over a couple decades the sharp corners of the deck lid have dug into the wooden supports on the side while filing the corners off of the lid.
So I ground down the edge of the lid and built a mold on the end of it out of tape and cardboard. Fiberglass, fiberglass, fiberglass. Until it was thick enough and tall enough to be ground down level with the rest of the edge.
I’m lovin the fact that the whole cock pit and under dash is getting painted. I know I’ve said this before but everything is getting done no matter what. It will all match when done so who cares.
So one was done and I thought why not another. So I took the deck lit that sits under the front fore deck. It had a horseshoe cut out of one end where a past owner vented a bilge blower through there. I kind of understand what he was doing but along with the three cowl vents in the front deck that I just fixed again and the two in the rear transom deck along with the motor box having twenty holes in it I think it was overkill to say the least. So I did the same as the last procedure and fixed it also.
I've been thinking about it and I may install a three inch flush mount vent somewhere in the lid in the future just to keep the air fresh down there.
Being it’s Saturday and having a full day, today I thought I would take on a bigger project. I’m moving the batteries to the back again.
After installing the big block it was to tight to put the batteries in the motor box anymore so they got moved to the front of the gas tank. A bit of a necessary evil that had to be done. I always thought I would change it one day but never got to it.
So the plan is to move the gas tank forward six or seven inches along with the shelves in front and back of the tank that are glassed in.
Seems simple enough and for the most part it was pretty straight forward except for it being a lot of work. Gas tanks just don’t move in this boat and shelves don’t slide.
So after I finally took the seats out it took about 6 hours to take everything out and then put it all back together again just seven inches away. Both shelves are glassed back in. All the blocking is in for the tank and I cut and drilled new support wood that holds the deck covers up. I’ll wait to install them to after the painting of the cockpit.
Having a little time left and after doing the other two deck plates last night I decided to fix the edge of the third out of four deck plates that is in the motor box. No one can see it but I can so again this is the time to do it.
This one is a little tricky. I want it to follow the curvature of the motor box lid just to be cool and it will make more room to get to the batteries. Every inch counts.
When I was done glassing it was a little late to do the grinding so we will see how it turns out tomorrow.
June 27, 2011
At some point you have to say enough is enough and move on.
After the tank was moved it was time to start locking things down. So I cleaned up the lattice work I have in the bow area to keep things out of the bilge water. Got all the hoses and wiring in along with a new sending unit for the tank. Moved the hydraulic lines around for the trim system.
Then I painted everything from the very nose of the boat all the way back to the transom with a couple coats of my home made paint and color. Well at least everything you will see. Gave it a day or so to harden up and then it was time for the move back to the driveway.
So after all the paint was hard enough to walk on it was time to move back to the driveway for the fit out. But first some simple work had to be done to get some of the bigger things out of the yard / garage to free up some space.
After getting the support boards in for the deck plates they were an easy one to start off with. The curve in the last plate came out perfect. Looks like it was supposed to be like that and gives plenty of room to get the batteries in and out.
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Fit Out
The start of the bling, bling.
Spent the better part of a day just getting the motor box pieces on so it could go back in the boat also and free up even more room. Don’t look like much but there's a lot there.
New white fiberglass edging all the way around the outside edge. Riveted in place anywhere that it would want to come off at. Like around hard corners and places it would get pulled on for any reason.
New grab handle more in size with the box that attaches with a much cleaner look.
Three new vent covers. I had to fill in a couple of the twenty holes that were drilled along this edge and then cut new holes the size of the new vents before the paint. Finally got to install the vents and really see what it was going to look like. IMHO a lot better.
I used a cool looking step pad on the front of the box where it rested on the deck when it was open to prevent scratching of either.
Last but most definitely not least, new hinges. I hated the old hinges. They were meant to unlock so you could remove the motor box if needed. I’ve only removed the motor box two times since I’ve had the boat and both were for paint. So I will do the work if need in the future to unscrew the six screws to never have to use the old ones again.
It doesn’t seem like a big deal but if you ever had your motor box open up because bounced sideways over a wave (like that never happens in a boat) you would understand. They would also come apart about 50% of the time you would just want to open the box.
The main issue was just finding hinges big enough and strong enough to hold the box. I ended up finding these from a refrigerator supply company. Stainless steel and made to hold up and industrial freezer door so they should hold up good.
Even though I had the patterns to the windshield it was about the only help I had when it came to it. I ended up using pop rivets to fill in all the holes left from the hurricane top snaps. Had a couple places to fix on the frame where it was coming apart. Also had to get a broken off bolt out of it. Then had to find and get a lot of new hardware in stainless steel where the zinc pieces melted away. A new way to install the seal so it wouldn’t bunch up in the heat it took the better part of two days to get it right.
But before that I had to get the in deck compass installed. Good thing to because it would have been a nightmare with the glass there.
Now I’m just trying to empty boxes and get them out of the house or garage.
I’m going with the cleats (now that I have a matching stern cleat) from bow to stern instead of side to side just to see if I like it. I can always change them later if I want.
The pop up bow light went back. I was thinking original but it was a pain in the ass when it came to anchoring and always in the way. Flush mount horn went back also. New anchor light with a lid that belongs to it and closes proper.
Lots on the transom side of the boat. Just the two vents and they are not covering holes just cut into the transom deck. I used three inch PVC shower drain inserts. They basically pound into the three inch hole saw’s hole and stick out just below the under side. I did have to extend one so I could attach the vent from the bilge blower but besides that they make a nice watertight seals and look a lot better then just a hole.
New chrome bilge pump outlet. A lot nicer then the plastic one before.
New pop up gas fill that you really cant see.
New transom shield seals and fresh paint job on the shield it's self. After all the repairs it fit real nice and tight this time. Not that the last time was a bad install but it did start leaking after 6 years. Only a drip but that was drip to much for me and one of the main reason it’s July and I have not been on the water with this boat. I should have started this project in the fall but I got held up for other reasons but the last time I had it out I noticed the shield leaked and knew I couldn't hold off any longer an the makeover.
And that’s about it for the transom. Almost nothing and that’s the way it should be.
In here's another story.
It took half a day to get the batteries straightened out. Again a simple task but again everything had to be changed. Pretty much all the wiring had to be resized (shortened). And I had to buy a new battery to replace the one I used else where over the winter. It was different. Another trip to the auto parts store. Then to get the switch mounted, wires run and strapped up, boxes screwed down in the proper place and it all wrapped up, time flies.
Then it was off to the wiring harness. Get it all separated back out. Mounted the distributor control box to the transom. No place for it on the 496 exhaust this time.
New bilge pump.
Vent blower is mounted behind the seat but you can get to it if needed for service.
New steering pole holder thing. I don’t even know what’s it called but it holds the steering cable to the transom. My old one was cracked. Not dangerous cracked but why chance it?
New water pick up piping to where the oil cooler inlet will be. With a inline outlet for the freshwater inlet on the transom. I wont ever have to drag a garden hose into the boat to flush the motor again.
And I could go on and on but the bottom line is it’s ready for the motor. The motor on the other hand is an issue but more on that later.
I also got the throttle / gear controller mounted to the side of the boat. I am so looking forward to using it. No more leaning into the dash to push the throttle. Now I can sit back in the seat where I belong.
It’s a bit of a trick to get it to work here. First the boat was never set up for it, there’s a lot of stuff back there and last it on the opposite side for most boats. That's the main reason I used the prototype instead of something new. Once I got this one to work I let it go at that.
July 8, 2011
After 6 or 7 tries and two completely cut out dash boards I think I have one that will work. After spending two weeks on the one over the winter with the super glaze on it, installed the damn thing and after an hour in the sun the glazing started to peal off the face of the board. So I had to make a new dash board by tracing the last one and proceeded to finish it 3 different times. The first came out bad. The second came out perfect but the next day I flipped the board over and laid it on a box and it left big creases in the board. Strip it again and this time I use the same stain and ValSpar clear coat but this time I use the secrete additive and the next day it was hard as a rock. There goes about 3 weeks of off and on time of my life that I will never get back.

Took about 3 days to sort out all the wiring and then move everything from one side to the other. Switches to the right side of the wheel now. Gages to the left/center of the dash. Trim To the throttle handle. Add in just moving the steering cable up three inches took over an hour with the rerouting of the cable and all.
Then I had to get the dash pad in before I could put the steering wheel in. The dash pad has never been there before being I just made it a few months ago and the is many compound angles it has to be bent in to make fit so it was a bit of a struggle.
The next was to get the side panel in so I could finish off the wiring for the trim system and control handle for the throttle. I know the purest are going to say “that’s not how a Nova is set up.” I say the throttle in the dash is a foolish thing that needed to be fixed. At some point someone tried to make the boat bigger then it was. Throttles on the dash are for cabin cruisers. This is a speed boat. And you would understand if you ever took a wave at a not so great angle leaning into the dash.

The rest of the interior is going in slowly. Everything is fighting me every step of the way. Bolts to short, holes not lining up but what to expect being everything is new. It may look like the old interior but it’s a lot tighter, fits better and even the lines in the seats have to line up also. I think I have to adjust one seat back but over all it came out nice. I know the center seat covers the vents but there is an airspace between the two and the motor box still should breath better then it did before.
Then it started to rain. I still have a couple hours to button up a few things and to get the front seats in. What I’ve been waiting to do for 6 months. What’s another day? 
July 23, 2011
Wow! I didn’t realize how much time had past since I’ve done an update. Sorry about that but I’ve been real busy to say the least.
As things started to come to a close on the upholstery I did a little exploratory surgery on the motor. What I thought was a simple fix is no where near it. But more on that later.
To wrap up were I left off at. All the upholstery is in. Again it’s not perfect but a lot better then it was before and with the color I chose it should hold up a lot better then the lighter color that was in it before.
The new front seats are more in size of what they are supposed to look like. I’ve only seen pictures of what the original seats in the boat looked like. Strange enough not a single Nova that I’ve found has the original seats so no measurements. It was just a “best guess” to get them close to what they should look like but I think the new seats are at least more proportionate to the front of the boat.

I have to say they are one of the most comfortable boat seats I’ve ever sat in. It’s like you put the boat on. Not just sitting on the seat. Add in the new side controller and it’s like sitting in a whole different boat. A boat you want to drive. Like when you sit in a sports car. I was a bit worried about being able to see all the gages when I laid out the dash like I did but they all seem easy enough to see. Having the switches for the lights and such seems so natural where they are now. Out of the way but right there where you need them. I found a place that you can order the little name plates for the switches and even have them make custom plates with what ever you want on them. I had to get two custom plates made. If not I would have had to use two plates to label the first two double switches.
And with a couple trim pieces the upholstery was done.
With that done I could finish up the interior lights. I used the night setting on my camera so that’s why everything looks so bright. It’s more of a nice warm light that when underway at night it shouldn't screw up my night vision.
With the power back on it almost seems like a working boat again.
Just to finish up a couple things while I was knee deep in the motor I went ahead and put the speakers and new Pioneer 200 watt amp (Thanks Randy) in. I can hear some of you now, “loud music”. I like my stuff to sound good. With gas prices now I can see I'll be spending more time parked then screaming. Not that I would pull into a quiet cove blasting but there is places that it’s fine to jam.
As much as I hated to even put registration numbers on the boat it’s a necessary evil so adding a “Time Warp” flair to the font was a must. I also lettered the transom. The 10 year old decal was a bit of a problem to get off the backing and I ended up pealing off individual letters and placing them on by hand. Next time I will just get new.
A little of this here and a little of that there and I pretty much put the cover on it and it sat for the next week.
Now to make it go.
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F_in Motor
July 10th - July 23rd, 2011
After having to take the whole motor apart this is what I found.
A spun / feathered rod bearing.
Great........ 
This was the last thing I thought that happened. Glad it happened so close to the dock but for the most part the damage had already been done.
Not sure why but the oil pressure dropped off (not fatally though) and then it started to make a noise. Normal cause and effect but then again I found it’s not. There’s a reason the oil pressure dropped off so I had to investigate. But for right now I had to get fixed what was right in front of me that was all tore up.
So the damage ended up being, the crank was wiped out, one rod end spun out, 3 pistons had galled up their wrist pins, oil pump obviously was done for, metal in the pan meant metal in the rest of the motor including all the rubber oil lines and the list goes on. Basically it’s screwed. And who say that it wont do the same thing again when I put it back together? I still dont have a cause.
The crank needed to be fixed no matter what and I cant do it myself so the next day I took it the machine shop. It had to be cut .020 under on the mains and the rods. It got tore up real bad. I also had the guy order me bearings for the crank because they would know what size it was going to be before I would. Just faster and off my plate.
Get home and start ordering other stuff. Over the next couple days I find out it’s next to impossible get anyone to move for single pistons or single rods. I do get them at least ordered but they were on back order before I even started my order. After a lot of phone calls I actually made progress but they were still weeks out at best. No one wanted to break up a full set. Even the factories who built them. I finally had enough and bought full sets of each. Glad I did to. It was only a couple hundred dollar difference. I found out the rods had got super hot and and blacken which made them weaker. All the pistons were jacked. Galled to hell. Even the ones that totally free when still mounted.
The guy at the shop where I was having my work done said, “that’s why we use floating pins”. I looked into it and the were only 30 bucks more then the standard rods so I did it and saved me a few bucks because it would have cost more to have them mounted if I got the press pin style.
Been here before.
Everything came in about the same time as the crank came back from the machine shop. It almost seemed like a full time job getting everything in line but it happened.
Over that time I also was investigating why the motor did what it did. The best I could come up with, and this is a long shot, I painted it with metal flake paint. Who knows? Maybe a couple metal flakes got in the oil pump or bearing and wreaked the place. But when I go to pick up the crank and bearings I stumble on what is more likely happened.
I’m talking to the machinist at the shop and he says that he had to order a different rod bearing then what we talked about before. A standard bearing was not right for the crank and a beveled bearing was needed because of the shoulder of the crank will chew up a standard bearing. Something about the way they build high performance cranks and cut the journals. Now that makes more sense. Ground up rod bearing ends in the oil and it was on from there. Sad. I wish they would have told me being I bought everything from the same shop. About a 20 dollar difference between having the right or wrong ones could have saved all this.

Took my time and cleaned everything a couple times then did it again and that's what I didn’t just replace. Took a couple days to get it all put back together. By day three it was in the boat. Now it was time to go back to wiring and get what was left of the harness hooked back up even though a few things had been moved around. Also had to chase down another broken wire. I would rather rewire the whole boat then try to find a break in an existing harness.
Got it all hooked back up. New exhaust on. Plumbed, wired, filled, gassed up, controls connected and then fired it up. 75psi oil pressure and all the rest of the gages are exactly where they should be.
I do like the 496 exhaust. Gives it more of an off shore boat sound.
August 22, 2011
It's been a couple weeks for an update because I'm ass deep in the raceboat. It was almost like when this one was winding down the race boat was winding up, fast.
I've had the 19 out only a couple times so far and I'm making progress. Projects like this are never perfect right out of the box.
It started off with a timing issue and then my ignition box started doing something weird. At WOT it kept sounding like the Rev Limiter was kicking in. Tried a bunch of different timing settings. Set the Rev limiter to 7 grand. Still the same thing. Had me a bit worried being the motor was only a hour old so I took it home.
Worked on the raceboat again until I ran out of things to do and then came back to this one for another go around.
This time I checked all the wires for everything connected to the ignition. Cleaned the fuel filter and reset the Rev Limiter on the box to "off".
Today I took it for a ride and I think I may have something to work with here. Made some major changes to the boat over the spring so some things are not going to be attributed to just the prop but what a difference. The new Solas 21P Left had better take off grip. Definitely got the boat up and out of the water. To get the boat up on plane took 4 to 6 hundred rpm’s less then before. Once the boat was on plane I could actually stay on plane 4 to 6 hundred rpm’s lower then I could with the ultra. I didn't have GPS with me so I don't know what the top end was but it felt faster.
One thing I did notice was that I would get the boat up to cruising speed (3 grand), set the trim on the outdrive and when I went up through the power ban to wot I found that the prop liked the drive lowered some from my starting point. That was very strange to me but it worked.
My top end is to high at 5500rpms Though. So now I'm on the hunt for a 23P and if that don't work, over next winter I'll have it bent to a 25P.
To me it's a whole new boat. It drives different and feels different. There was a lot of changes made. From the balance of the boat to filling the strikes with foam. It sounds different with the new exhaust. Seats are different and even the controller is on the other side. It's gonna take a while to figure it all out again.
Last, my clear coat on the white is turning brown. It's time to contact the paint company. 
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Everything In Five Minutes.
If a picture says a thousand words then here's about 2 billion words for ya.
2012
New Beginnings
It's the beginning of a new year and I have been so looking forward to it. This is the year for styling and profiling. Well at least I hope so.
Over the winter while working on a couple other boats ( yeah I said couple) I have had this sitting in the back of my mind ever since the last ride last fall. So I picked up a couple things that needed to be fixed like the screws in the steering wheel rusted for some reason but Grant stood behind him and send me new. Along with some typical stuff to take it out of its winter hibernation. I also did get the 23 pitch Solas propI've been wanting for the last couple years. If it turns out to be the improvement I expect from the 21 that I used last year it will be the ultimate prop for this boat. And like you said if the 23 is not enough it can always be bent into a 25. The nicest thing about having a brand-new prop.
It's only March and I don't even have it uncovered yet but I so can't wait. So let's see how it works out.
Updates the follow.
It's almost time to take the ax out of the shed.
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THE NEW SHANTY TOWN
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